Hair Type Categories for Hair Care: How to Choose The Right Hair Care Products Using Hair Type
- OOF!
- Mar 13
- 9 min read
Updated: Aug 24
The secret to perfect hair care? It’s all about your hair type.
What is my hair type? What is a hair type chart? How do I soften and smooth my coarse hair? What is the best treatment for frizzy hair?
The usual hair type chart and hair type categories are outdated, here's why.
When it comes to hair care, understanding your hair type can be really helpful for knowing the best ingredients and solutions to look for in your hair products.
It sets the foundation for developing a personalized hair care routine that caters to your specific needs.
There are several classification systems to identify different hair types and hair type categories, including the widely known Andre Walker Hair Typing System. However, most hair type charts focus mainly on curl pattern which is just one characteristic about your hair.
Understanding your hair curliness type (structure) is only a piece of the hair type puzzle. Curl pattern alone won’t really help you figure out how to care for your hair.
Our hair type chart and hair type quiz help you to find your exact hair type including structure, density, and porosity.
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How to Identify Your Hair Type
Hair Type Category 1: (Hair Curl Pattern)
Hair Type Category 2: (Thickness): Fine, Medium or Coarse Hair?
Hair Type Category 3: Thin, Normal, or Thick
Hair Type Category 4: Hair Porosity Type: Low, Balanced, High
Hair Care Routine and Ingredients By Hair Type
Hair Care That Works For Any Hair Type
Tailoring your hair care routine based on your hair type, structure, density, and porosity.
How to identify your hair type and characteristics.
Determining your hair type is the first step towards creating an effective hair care routine.
Our hair type chart breaks down each of the hair type categories and provides descriptions of their characteristics, helping you pinpoint where your hair falls on the spectrum.
Want to do this the easy way? Take the Hair Type Quiz!
Want a quick and easy way to figure out your hair type and the best ingredients and hair care plan for your hair? Take the OOF! Hair Type Quiz and quickly determine your best hair care plan.
Hair Type Category 1: Your Hair Curl Pattern
Ask yourself: Is my hair type curly, straight, and somewhere in between? Hair curliness types are all about hair structure. Hair structure refers to the arrangements of proteins, such as keratin, that make up the hair shaft.
The shape of your hair follicles determine whether your hair is straight, wavy, curly or kinky.
Straight (1A - 1C Hair Type)
Straight hair lies flat from root to tip and doesn’t form waves or curls when it air-dries. It usually looks smooth and shiny, thanks to how easily light reflects off the surface.
If your hair dries straight naturally and doesn’t have much natural bend, you have a straight hair type. It’s also the hair type most likely to get oily fast—yep, that shine isn’t always from your serum.
Wavy (2A - 2C Hair Type)
Wavy hair has a natural bend that forms loose, S-shaped patterns. It’s not straight, but it’s not curly either—right in the middle.
If your hair dries with a gentle wave or gets beachy without a curling iron, you have a wavy hair type. It can be prone to frizz and craves moisture and definition to keep those waves looking their best.
Curly (3A - 3C Hair Type)
Curly hair forms defined loops or spirals that start at the root or mid-lengths. If your hair naturally coils or springs into shape when it dries—without heat or styling—you’re in curly territory.
It often feels drier because natural oils have a harder time traveling down the curl pattern. Curly hair types thrive with moisture, gentle handling, and products that help define and protect the curl shape.
Coily / Kinky (4A - 4C Hair Type)
Coily hair has tight curls or zig-zag patterns that start right at the root. If your hair forms tight coils or kinks when it air-dries you curl type is coily.
This hair type needs a lot of moisture. It often looks dense and full, but the strands themselves can be fine, fragile, and prone to shrinkage.This hair type benefits from gentle detangling, deep hydration, and protective styling.
Hair Type Category 2: Your Hair Texture
Ask Yourself: How thick does a single strand of hair feel between my fingers? Hair texture or thickness refers to the diameter of individual hair strands.
It plays a significant role in determining how hair looks, feels, and behaves. There are main 3 different hair types when it comes to texture – fine hair, medium hair, and thick hair.
Fine Hair Texture
Fine hair strands are smaller in diameter, making them lightweight and delicate. Individual strands of fine hair are hard to feel between your fingers.
Fine hair texture types are considered the most fragile texture because they can be easily damaged.
Fine hair tends to lack volume and can appear flat. It may be prone to oiliness at the scalp but can also be easily weighed down by heavy products.
Medium Hair Texture
Medium textured hair covers your scalp very well. It is not as fragile as thin hair, so it can be manipulated into different hairstyles easily.
Medium texture means individual strands feel similar to a piece of sewing thread between your fingers and is smooth and elastic when pulled between your fingers.
It is the most common hair texture type and usually looks thick.
Coarse Hair Texture
Coarse hair strands are larger in diameter, and feel rough or wiry when rubbed between your fingers. This gives a fuller appearance to the hair, and coarse hair often has plenty of volume and body.
Coarse textured hair can be more challenging to manage and style due to its density, but it tends to be more resilient to damage.
Hair Type Category 3: Your Hair Density
Ask yourself: How much hair do I have? Hair texture (thickness) and density are not the same thing. People frequently mistake hair texture (diameter) of the hair fiber for density. Hair density is the number of hair strands on your head.
If you have a low-density hair type, you may find that your hair lacks volume and body. On the other hand, high-density hair type can be challenging to manage and style due to its thickness and weight.
Thin: Low Density Hair Type
Thin hair density means there are fewer hair strands per square inch on the scalp. It may result in a sparse or lightweight appearance. Thin hair types can lack volume and fullness, and it may be more prone to showing scalp visibility.
If you make a ponytail with you hair, it's very small and lacks thickness.
Normal Density Hair Type
Normal hair density indicates a moderate number of hair strands per square inch on the scalp. This density hair type strikes a balance between thin and thick hair, offering adequate coverage and volume.
Normal hair density is generally considered healthy and manageable. You have a good, thick ponytail.
Thick Hair: High Density Type
Thick density hair type means there is a dense, high concentration of hair strands per square inch on the scalp. It results in a dense and voluminous appearance with ample coverage.
Thick hair type can be challenging to manage due to its density, and it may require more effort to style and maintain.
Hair Type Category 4: Your Hair Porosity
Last, but definitely not least is hair porosity. Ask yourself: How easily does my hair soak in and retain moisture? How quickly does my hair dry?
Hair porosity refers to the hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture. This is a huge one for hair care.
Porosity is determined by the condition of the hair cuticle, which is the outermost protective layer of the hair shaft. The cuticle can have three different states: open, partially open, or closed.
You can think of your hair cuticles like shingles on a roof. If your "shingles" are lifted (open), water can get through. This would be high porosity hair.
If they are flat and smooth (closed), water can't get through. This would be low porosity hair. Medium porosity lies somewhere in between.
Testing for Hair Porosity
Place a single strand of your hair (2-3 inches) in a glass of water. Wait 5 minutes and see where your hair end up. If the hair strand floats at the top, you have low porosity hair.
If it sinks to the bottom, you have high porosity hair. If it floats somewhere in the middle, this is considered a balanced or normal porosity.
Low Porosity Hair Type
Low porosity hair type has a tightly closed cuticle, making it difficult for water and other molecules to penetrate the hair shaft, resulting in slow moisture absorption. This hair type takes longer to absorb water or products, but once absorbed, it retains moisture well.
Products may sit on the surface of the hair rather than being absorbed, leading to potential buildup.
Sometime low porosity hair types will end up over conditioned. If you have low porosity hair that feels mushy when its wet and looks frizzy when dry, use a clarifying shampoo to remove moisturizer build up and lightly condition with protein to bring back balance.
Low porosity hair types can also have protein overload. This is when you've used to many proteins in your hair products and upset the protein to moisture. balance.
If your hair feels like dry straw, use a clarifying shampoo to remove the buildup, stop using proteins in hair products for a few months, and add in hydration to bring back the balance.
Balanced Porosity Hair Type
Normal porosity hair type has a balanced cuticle structure, with the scales lying flat but not overly compacted. This allows moisture to penetrate the hair shaft effectively while also helping to retain it within the hair.
Balanced porosity hair can absorb and release moisture without excessive difficulty, maintaining a healthy moisture balance.
High Porosity Hair Type
High porosity hair type has a damaged or raised cuticle layer, which can occur due to factors such as heat styling, chemical treatments, or environmental damage. With gaps or lifted scales in the cuticle, high porosity hair readily absorbs moisture but struggles to retain it.
This can lead to dryness, frizz, and brittleness as moisture escapes from the hair shaft more easily. This type of hair requires products that can seal the cuticle and prevent moisture loss.
Hair Care Routine and Ingredients By Hair Type
Now that you have a clear understanding of your hair type by structure, texture, density, and porosity, you can begin to tailor your hair care routine accordingly.
You may have some areas that overlap. In this case, consider the most important consideration for what you what from you hair and try a combination of ingredients.
You can use the hair type chart and hair type categories to easily see which ingredients and methods may be best for your type.
Hair Care for Fine, Thin, and Low Porosity Hair Types
When selecting shampoos, conditioners, and volumizers for fine, thin, and low porosity hair types, avoid heavy or overly moisturizing formulas, as they can weigh the hair down and reduce volume.
Instead, opt for products that are lightweight, volumizing, and designed to enhance body and texture without compromising hair health. Go light with protein treatments.
Water-based shampoos and conditioners
Sulfate-free formulas
Volumizing products
Clarify shampoo every 1-2 weeks
Moisturizing ingredients: honey, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, panthenol
Go easy on the protein (monthly treatments are plenty)
Hair Care for Medium-Textured, Normal Density, and Balanced Porosity Hair Types
The key for these hair types is to maintain its natural balance without causing excessive weight or dehydration.
Try gentle, shampoos and hydrating conditioners that provide moisture without weighing the hair down.
Sulfate-free formulas
Moisturizing shampoo and conditioner
Ingredients to look for: argan oil, jojoba, aloe, glycerin
Lightweight styling (avoid heavy conditioners)
Scalp oiling for hair growth
Hair Cair for Coarse, Thick, High Porosity Hair Types
The most important considerations for these hair types revolve around hydration, strengthening, and minimizing damage.
Coarse hair tends to be more prone to dryness due to its thick diameter and high porosity, which allows moisture to escape easily.
Using rich, creamy styling products and gentle detangling techniques helps improve manageability, reduce frizz, and enhance the overall appearance of the hair.
Sulfate-free moisturizing shampoos and conditioners (low protein)
High protein, deep conditioning weekly
Leave in conditioners
Sealing oils to lock in moisture
Scalp oiling for hair growth
Moisturizing ingredients: coconut oil, shea butter, avocado oil
Use a humidifier in the winter
Hair Care That Works For Any Hair Type
Regardless of your hair type, two essential tools for promoting hair health include using a scalp massager as well as a t-shirt hair towel to dry your hair. Regular scalp massage can further enhance hair growth and thickness.
Pairing this with a cotton t-shirt hair towel to gently dry your hair and protect your hair against breakage and frizz, you can maintain the integrity of your strands and promote smoother, more manageable hair.
Scalp Massage for Hair Growth and Thickness
Scalp massagers help stimulate blood flow to the scalp, delivering essential nutrients and oxygen to the hair follicles.
This increased circulation can encourage hair growth, strengthen the hair roots, and improve overall scalp health.
T-shirt Hair Towels for Reducing Damage and Frizz
By wrapping your hair in a t-shirt hair towel after washing, you can minimize friction and tension on the hair, reducing the risk of breakage and preventing tangles from forming.
This gentle drying method is especially beneficial for those with long hair or easily tangled textures, helping to preserve the integrity of the hair and promote smoother, more manageable strands.
Try hair plopping for curly hair or wrap your hair in turban. The smooth texture and low surface area of 100% cotton hair towels prevents damage to delicate, wet hair.
Tailoring your hair care routine based on your hair type, structure, density, and porosity
Understanding your unique combination of hair type and hair type category – including texture, density, and porosity can help you craft an effective hair care regimen tailored to your specific needs.
We hope you have found some helpful information here. Please comment and let us know!
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